
RULES RESTAURANT
A Skelding Summary
EST.1798
35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, London
In the year Napoleon opened his campaign in Egypt,
Thomas Rule promised his despairing family that he would say goodbye to
his wayward past and settle down. No sooner said, than he opened an
oyster bar in Covent Garden. To the surprise and disbelief of his
family, this enterprise proved to be not only successful but lasting.
Contemporary writers were soon singing the praises of Rules' 'porter,
pies and oysters', and remarking on the 'rakes, dandies and superior
intelligences who comprise its clientele'.
Rules still flourishes, the oldest restaurant in London and one of the
most celebrated in the world. In all its 204 years, spanning the reigns
of nine monarchs, it has been owned by only three families...just
before The Great War, Charles Rule, a descendant of the founder, was
thinking of moving to Paris; by sheer coincidence he met Tom Bell, a
Briton who owned a Parisian restaurant called the Alhambra, and the two
men decided to swap businesses. (During the war Tom Bell was an officer
in the Royal Flying Corps, and left the running of the restaurant to
Charlie, the Head Waiter, who has served Charles Rule for many years.)
In 1984 Tom Bell's daughter sold Rules to John Mayhew, the present
owner. Today Rules seats over 200 people on three floors, employs 80
staff and serves an average of 450 people a day - that is 120,000 a
year.
Rules serves the traditional food of this country at its best - and at
affordable prices. It specialises in classic game cookery, oysters,
pies and puddings. Rules is fortunate in owning an estate in the High
Pennines, 'England's last wilderness', which supplies game for the
restaurant and where it is able to exercise its own quality controls
and determine how the game is treated. For further information, ask for
a copy of Rules' Guide to Game.
A Star-Studded Past
Throughout its long history the tables of Rules have been crowded with
writers, artists, lawyers, journalists and actors. As well as being
frequented by great literary talents - including Charles Dickens,
William Makepeace Thackeray, John Galsworthy and H G Wells - Rules has
also appeared in novels by Rosamond Lehmann, Evelyn Waugh, Graham
Greene, John Le Carre, Dick Francis, Penelope Lively and Claire Rayner.
The actors and actresses who have passed through the Rules are legion.
Down the decades Rules has been an unofficial 'green room' for the
world of entertainment from Henry Irving to Laurence Olivier, and the
history of the English stage adorns the walls. The sibling art of the
cinema has contributed its own distinguished list of names including
Buster Keaton, Charles Laughton, Clark Gable, Charlie Chaplin and John
Barrymore.
The past lives on at Rules and can be seen on the walls all around you
- captured in literally hundreds of drawings, paintings and cartoons.
The late John Betjeman, then Poet Laureate, described the ground floor
interior as 'unique and irreplaceable, and part of the literary and
theatrical London'.