.
Entertainment & education (and what else is there?) is obviously
more plentiful in Covent Garden now than it was. For all the current
nostalgic obsession with the past the beginnings of theatre, street trade
and entertainment - even style was born in times known for rank poverty,
crime and stench. Even after plagues and fires Dickens often referred to
'unpleasant vapours'. Lavender sellers came to fill a need as did the sale
of 'lemon gloves' at the opera to make the experience of being part of an
audience bearable for those who still paid heed to their sense of smell.
'Nowadays' is so rich and the choices so many that I venture to say it
would take a long time to get the full experience of this little bunch of
streets. Even people who live and work here have exploring to do.
Certainly history has made it's imprint over the centuries. The streets
you walk in now were a proscenium for dramas in a tragic, funny and often
barely human existence Tenements that housed as many people as possible in
disgusting, diseased conditions were replaced as necessary in a long cycle
of re-development. The tendencies towards bad architecture, carpeted and
conditioned faceless comfort actually drives people away. Hence the
corporate owners demolish gingerly. Admittedly the largest chains have
erected some characterless buildings (having looked enviously at the
bottom line of greed-driven 'Walmart types') however Covent Garden still
survives as a place that offers real quality and originality. The energy
of centuries of artisans, traders and players has survived much foul air
and even overcome the safe lull of architectural boredom.
There's little doubt that this part of the capital is the most popular
but not because of reputation - rather because it is a continuum of energy
from who knows how far back? People come in throngs all the year
around.
The current mayoral discovery that congestion is worth hard cash in
charges has had the effect of driving more people in to Covent Garden on
Saturdays. Unfortunately the charges are not improving public transport
apparently since there are no less than 20 tube stations that need
renovating to the point where they close if there is too much traffic
through them.
The tube station Covent Garden is exit only on Saturday afternoons. The
good thing about this is that more people can get 'food for speculation'
as they perambulate through the streets to the nearby stations at
Embankment Charing Cross, Holborn and Leicester Square. LT's famous tube
map does not show how near these stations are. The printable Scape map
from this site helps plan some short, if purposeful walks. For example
rather than walk down Long Acre, try Floral Street. It starts in Bow
street, crosses James Street and continues parallel with Long Acre, right
at Garrick Street and over to Cranbourn Street where you can pick up the
Piccadilly or Northern lines.
Floral Street is worth going down. It's sweet, has lots of little
courts and good shops. We still have the picture of the pink post outside
Diesel Designer shop, but the Local Authority did not like the colour so
it's black again.
If you like guided walks you can take advantage of the Theatre Museum
walks. These are good. Explore Covent Garden from the viewpoint of
history, theatre and its famous personalities including King Charles II
who quickly re-established theatre when he became king. Cromwell,
typically narrow minded of that age, had closed all playhouses to "appease
and avert the wrath of God." Charles licensed 2 'Royal' playhouses in what
was then known as the 'Convent Gardens' of Westminster Abbey. He was
responsible for a landmark in the progress of women who he allowed to play
female parts influenced maybe by his teenage mistress Nell Gwynne.
No two days, walks, shops, or even pints of beer are the same in these
parts. The chains who offer the same in any part of any town have a
different experience in this area from any other.
Every person out strolling is adding something to the area's
riches.