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RULES IN MAIDEN LANE

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"Then there's always Rules in every discussion about which place to eat in today. Even people who book restaurants in advance discuss it. Rules? mmmmmmm

"It's the sort of restaurant that epitomises the quality & character that makes Covent garden like no other place. Everything's interesting to look at and the ambient noise is low enough to be able to privately speak naturally amongst yourselves in there. Accoustics are good so sound doesn't carry. Comfortable supportive seats and fresh air are just part of it all - sort of expected..

"Because of the food. That's why you go again, that's why the discussions about 'if you can get a place' and 'if you feel like lashing out a little bit'.. because, anyway, it's well satisfying.

"Meat and fish tasted as tho' from grandfathers table but (respectfully) with the added nuance of great chefdom.

"'Just-picked' tasting veg cooked various ways and always served with that slight fresh crunch..

"The wines aren't outrageous prices really. It's a cellar worth exploring.

"The waiters are cute too. Neat and elegant with electronic devices to take the order - as deftly as any pencil 'n pad. No technological intrusion but added speed 'n efficiency.. It seems it's accessed immediately on the kitchen screen and the chefs get straight on with cooking it. from fresh.

"It's a restaurant where the whole experience of the lunch should end up with simply saying goodbye and thankyou and taking your leave. Actually the process of paying for food tends to reduce the feeling of grandeur by somehow intruding on the obvious hospitality . However at Rules this function is dispatched with politesse and with not a hint of unctuous or bureaucratic overtones.

"Any lunch or dinner there. has lasted me for days. I bet it's talked about a lot in France and Belgium. They 'remember dishes to each other' with relish while they eat another one. They really get value from reiterating menus over
the Channel.

"Rules is splendid value in some people's experience and posh and expensive by other standards. Whatever,, - it's my favourite. That's why it's my first review."

By Jackie Mackay - Editor [jackie@scape.co;uk]

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